The Old School of Paris

I never liked the end of August – it always depressed me. Summer in Newfoundland is hanging its head and admitting defeat and soon, as in every year, school would begin. For my sister, school was a great adventure – she was always excited for the school year to begin and all it would bring. The adventure of walking into the malls where the chemical smell of plastic binders combined with the pepperiness of wooden pencils signified the end of summer and the beginning of fall. For me it was the smell of the end of freedom and the return to schoolwork, classes and lessons.

However, since I have been on vacation for the last little while, and more specifically, in Paris, there has been a lot of reflection on the beauties of the month of August.
August is the month when most Parisians take their annual leave. Restaurants, shops and other institutions can be closed for almost the whole month. The French know how to relax – they get out of the city and onto the beaches. After three weeks they return refreshed and ready for another year of work.

Paris is the center of haute cuisine and fashion. Everywhere you look there is a shop selling clothes and the other side is a restaurant, brasserie, or cafe. In fact there are nearly 20,000 restauraunts in Paris alone, a staggering number. Yet, almost every one we passed over the past week has been full or near bursting to capacity. The city is bustling with life even as it is supposed to be resting. The local haunts for the local residents stay open just to keep them all happy.
Paris is a city of traditions – strict traditions. During the week the streets are fairly calm, with the majority of the people walking around being tourists or vendors. By the time work is over, say 5 in the evening the pace of the city changes. there is a time at the end of every day for a trip to a local cafe or bar to have a drink with a friend. It is not a binge, it is just a way to unwind at the end of the day with friends. Then the brasseries start getting busy for food service around 9 pm. this is when the locals come out to eat. If they haven’t had the chance for the aperitif (pre-dinner drink) they certainly are at this time. Most places are open until fairly late but prices go up after 11:00 pm – and this is accepted as part of being out late.
The weekend is for relaxing, shopping and spending time with family. Sunday especially is critical – the markets open early and the street markets are filled with the murmur of chatter from the cafes and the intoxicating aromas of French perfume and tobacco smoke. The markets are filled with the joi de vivre of the city of Paris. On our market street, which was one of the reasons for staying in this area in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement, with the sun out, it felt alive. There is passion about food as shown by the care in which everyone deals with it.

At the butcher meats are cut by hand, at the cheese shops they tell you the best way to serve them, at the fruit stand everything looks like it came off the trees and into the bins without a hint of damage.

Here even the street food is called monsieur or Madame – I leave you with some easy Paris street food – the Croque Monsieur.

 

Croque Monsieur

2 slices bread, try a grainy country loaf
1 Tbs butter
1 slice of country ham
2-3 Tbs grated Gruyère, or Emmenthal cheese

Preheat broiler.

1. Spread the butter thinly on both sides of the bread.

2. Lay the ham on one slice and sprinkle on the cheese.

3. Cover with the second slice of bread and broil until golden. About 1-2 min

4. Turn sandwich and broil on the other side and serve immediately.

For a variation, top with a fried egg for a croque madame, or stuff with slices of avocado for a croque californian, all are tasty.

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