Sonoma challenge

October 26, 2007

“Show me what is popular,” I asked the NLC employee. A pretty girl with a small nose stud took me on a whirlwind tour of the store. We searched the shelves and she led me to all the stops I have been before – Australian Cabernet and Shiraz, Canadian wines from the mega producers, and Italian Sangiovese. Unfortunately, I was in the mood for something my friends don’t know about yet.
“I don’t drink wine, myself,” she said “but I will get you someone who does.”
Several minutes later a wine bottle was thrust into my hand – “here you go. If you don’t like this, the bald guy over there will buy you anything you would like.” That sounded like a challenge to me.
The wine was given to me by a manager – the same one who remembered the bottles of whiskey which my dad and I purchased a while back. They were brought into town on a flight from Labrador – but that is another story.
What was thrust upon me was a 1999 Chateau Souverain, a Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. I walked over and introduced myself to the wine rep. “So what’s the
deal with this? And why are you going to such lengths to stand behind it?”
“It’s a wine that shouldn’t be here and it is fantastic.”
Sure, I’ve heard this line before from a sales rep. They think they have the best product in the world. He then tells me that originally, this wine was not supposed to make it to Newfoundland, had it not been for the regional wine buyer who just plain asked for this to come in, and it did. The real question is was it worthy of the challenge?
My first impression was that it was a brash, over the top, bull headed red. The opening nose of acetone and dark and rich fruits should have made me balk but I pushed on. But then there was the taste – tightly tannic and astringent with lots of heavy oak. I was simply disappointed as this is not what I enjoy in a red wine.
However, something made me think it deserved a second chance. To be fair, I decanted it to let it breathe properly and to see what happened.
A wine that started tight and tannic with a lot of breathing turned into a rich fruit wine, with hints of strawberries and leather with tobacco overtones lingering from the oak aging. It became smooth and very palatable with a mild to moderate finish. Now, it lives up to the
hype.
Had I stopped drinking this wine after the first pour and not decanted it this would not have been a happy ending. Instead, the Chateau Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon was well worth the price of $34.56. It needs time to breathe – lots of time – but it is well worth the wait.

There are too many shows on television telling you how to throw a good party. Most of them involve the Martha Stewart-ization of house and home in order to impress your guests.
Let’s face it – Newfoundlanders as a people are the party sort. We love a good time surrounded by friends and family. We’re also uncomplicated folk. Not simple, but humble and honest. A party for us is the pleasure of each other’s company and a good time.
Over the weekend my wife and I experienced just that – a good time with friends. We went out Saturday night to a concert and afterwards friends asked “Hey, how about drinks at our place?” Who can say no to an invitation like that?
The trick to a good party is sometimes in the planning and other times it is in the spontaneous invitation of a few friends in for a drink and light snacks.
There is no need to make it complicated. If you are the sort of person who likes a good bowl of nacho chips and salsa – then that is all good. But if you want to make a quick couple of things to really impress without all the work – have I got the solution for you.
There are many great things to make which are uncomplicated and are tasty as well as good for you. One of these is hummus.
It is a simple dip made from chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice and sesame tahini. Here’s how you make it.

Hummus
14 oz can of garbanzo beans (chickpeas) drained and rinsed
½ cup of tahini (sesame seed paste) found in grocery store in the international foods section
1-3 cloves of garlic roughly chopped
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
Water – as needed

Place ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Use the water to thin out the paste only slightly. You are looking for a thick consistency.
Variation – add 1-2 roughly chopped sun-dried tomatoes to the mixer when you start. Get the ones packed in oil – they are soft and easy to chop.

To go with this dip try pita chips. You could get some in the grocery store – or make your own. Get the thick Greek pitas and cut one of the rounds into 6. Place in a 350 degree pre heated oven on a cookie sheet for 5-7 minutes or until warmed.

Another good food for the fingers is bruschetta. Although there are many variations of this type of antipasto – which is basically an Italian hors d’œuvre – I make a simple one which can easily be made as a dip and will suit the pita chips as well.

Bruschetta

½ English cucumber, deseeded and diced
½ red onion, finely diced
½ red pepper, finely diced
1-2 tomatoes, diced
1tbs balsamic vinegar
Olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Drizzle in olive oil slowly and mix until it looks luxurious and glossy. Season generously with salt and pepper and taste again. If the balsamic vinegar is to acidic for you, add a small pinch of white sugar to balance the flavours.

The next ingredient is a tipple or two to make conversation flow. To go along with the food, pick up a crisp Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc like Lindemans Bin 95 which is reasonable at under $11. My favourite right now is the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc. It has all the right notes – floral, sweet and interesting and it is sturdy enough to handle the acidity of the food.
However, there are considerations – some people don’t like wine. So why not try a cocktail or two. Classic gin martinis are perfect for this type of setting and it also lends that layer of sophistication some of us crave. But hey, we don’t have to get all fancy. If you like beer, then serve that too. Just stay away from bitters or stout – they’re too heavy. Try Stella Artois. It is light and acidic, with light floral and almost no hoppy aftertaste and clean to the finish.
To get this all together could take as little as half an hour – perfect for that spontaneous party after a concert, after a night out, or….just because.

Evisceration by food critic

October 17, 2007

I love words.

I love wordplay and irony and sarcasm and biting references and wit and clever writing.

I love a scathing restaurant review.

In my profession of food writer I never step outside those bounds – I don’t tread on the tracks of others nor do I want to have my name published next to a review which could be the difference of success..or utter dismal failure.

If I were to write one – I would write on like this, as found on the pages of The Times. Read Michael Winner’s brilliant, and skewering review here

end

Unlawful dissemination of this or any other writing will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.

I guess I didn’t really think of it before, but I am pretty dehydrated all the time. I don’t like drinking water. Usually I can’t stand the stuff. It has no flavour – it is not refreshing, not interesting and tasteless. Or at least it was until this past weekend.

Being ill for two or three days without the ability to drink anything save water is an interesting study in what we like and what we don’t.

My usual drinking habits include drinking several cups of coffee, some tea maybe a glass of juice for breakfast – and a cup for tea before bed. So I figured that is pretty good right? Think again. I thought I had things under control until I did some reading during my time spent in bed.

Some water facts you might know:
The human body is made of roughly 70% water.
Poor hydration has been linked to poor concentration, tiredness, and soreness of joints.
Severe dehydration is dangerous and can lead to severe organ problems, and even death.

Some water facts that might surprise you:

New water drinking studies indicate we should be consuming 2.5 litres of water per day as part of a good healthy lifestyle.

Water lubricates the skin, makes your skin clearer and generally makes you feel more beautiful.
Water is as effective as coffee as that first sip of the day for that get up and go feeling – researchers have studied it.

So what does it all mean? Well simply put most of us are not getting enough water. So to help this, here are a few things to consider when thinking of increasing your water intake over the day.

Coffee and tea – although they contain 100% water – it is not water. These are as much dehydrators as they are good to drink. For every cup of coffee or tea you drink add one more glass of water to your day.

Soft drinks – too much sugar can cause as much of a problem as too little water. Try to limit them if you can.

Can’t stand the taste of plain water – try this; a little splash of fruit juice like apple will improve the taste considerably. And a little goes a long way to improve the taste.

Challenge yourself – take small sips often. That’s what I was told. Little sips throughout the day are just as effective as pounding down the whole store bought bottle of water in one draught.

The last little thing everyone wants to know is bottled water any better to drink? Well experts say no – hard core water drinkers will tell you differently. I think you can get away with a Brita water filter and local tap water. I like the fact that the activated charcoal filter takes some of the soil tastes out.

As for me I like it simple but I also like it elegant. I really like mineral water. San Pellegrino, Perrier or any other brand is perfect when ice cold as a drink with a fine meal.

Water. It’s in you. Drink it up.

Copyright 2007 Unlawful dissemination of this or any other work will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.

Brown bagging it

October 16, 2007

With the recent news – well not so recent for some, that Jamie Oliver’s much lauded School Lunch Program in the UK has been called “the dog’s dinner”, it is sad to see that his efforts have gone on in vain.

I know people have a strange idea about him and his ideas – his Restaurant 15 – for underprivileged students has met a similar criticism. His attempts are noble, and the intentions are there, it is sad to say that the response from the public has not embraced it totally and have instead chosen to ostracize him. I don’t necessarily like him as a celebrity chef – but I like the ideas behind what he is trying to achieve and that is much more important.

Anyway – for busy people needing some tips on healthy lunch choices – prepare to brown bag it. Enjoy.

“The longer I work in nutrition, the more convinced I become that for the healthy person, all foods should be delicious.” Adelle Aavis – pioneer of the American health movement

The stores are full of the smells of the end of summer – filled with the plasticated aroma of binders, reams of paper, coloured pencils and nylon back packs; in short – the smells of another school year about to begin.

The beginning of a new school year is a time to change the eating habits of those heading back to school and to try and blend good eating with tasty food. Nowadays, schools have full canteens ready to serve a whole host of foods to the students – albeit not much better
than your local fast food chain.

My food experiences when I was at school were a little different than most – I had a mom who was perfect at choosing what I should have for lunch every day.

I was a bit of a fussy one – I didn’t like to have a drink with lunch, so tetra-pack boxes were out, but I loved a good sandwich (still do), and there had to be an apple to finish.

Simple healthy food is the keystone to a healthy body and mind. While carbohydrates (found in chips, fries and other “beige” foods) are a good boost of energy for while, they have no staying power. This is why in the middle of the afternoon students who eat this kind of food become slow and lethargic – they have used up what little energy came from the boost and their body is slowly trying to finish converting the complex carbohydrates into energy.

One of the keys to successful learning is being able to fuel the body with the right foods to stave off that mid afternoon energy crash.

Here are some good ideas:

Fresh fruits and vegetables are the best way to get the nutrients needed for the day. Don’t stop there – add a small yoghurt as a dip for chopped fruit or a honey mustard dip (1tbs honey, 1tbs mustard mixed until combined). They add flavour without all the heavy fats.

I was a fan of a thermos of soup and a small sandwich for lunch during school. Not only did it feel like a substantial lunch but it kept me warm on the inside during winter months. Most manufacturers have styles of thermoses made just for soups including folding spoon and a wide mouth for pouring into the attached cup.

When I was in my first year of university, my mom was worried that I wasn’t eating right and she came up with a sort of trail mix for the “guy on the go”. In a little square of plastic wrap was an assortment of dried fruit, nuts, cereals and other fibre and protein laden foods – a one bite energy snack. The key was having it small enough to eat in a couple of bites. Perfect for running between classes and not getting caught while eating it! I found it to be the perfect brain food to keep me going. Try almonds, dried papaya, dried pineapple,
Vector cereal and raisins.

The last thing to consider is the bag all this healthy food goes in.
While some might poo-poo the modest brown bag, there are plenty of lunchboxes which have thermal linings to keep hot food hot and cold food cold as well as being made in stylish shapes and colours. Like any change of food choice, the key to success is finding out what
your children like to eat – and then modifying it. Giving them the same foods day after day will only encourage stagnant eating habits.

Get your children involved in making their lunches – then they are helping with the new food change, rather than having it imposed upon them.
For busy days, make lunches the night before – keeping foods that might go off in the fridge until morning. Mix up sandwiches with wraps, baguette or even toasted bagels.

Finally, why not add a dash of encouragement – in the form of a note.
Saying have a good day or good luck with that test can make a difference to their mental well being.

The challenge for school is not just getting good grades, but feeling good while doing it. Healthy food is an important first step.

Copyright 2007 Unlawful dissemination of this or any other work will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.

The Old School of Paris

October 12, 2007

I never liked the end of August – it always depressed me. Summer in Newfoundland is hanging its head and admitting defeat and soon, as in every year, school would begin. For my sister, school was a great adventure – she was always excited for the school year to begin and all it would bring. The adventure of walking into the malls where the chemical smell of plastic binders combined with the pepperiness of wooden pencils signified the end of summer and the beginning of fall. For me it was the smell of the end of freedom and the return to schoolwork, classes and lessons.

However, since I have been on vacation for the last little while, and more specifically, in Paris, there has been a lot of reflection on the beauties of the month of August.
August is the month when most Parisians take their annual leave. Restaurants, shops and other institutions can be closed for almost the whole month. The French know how to relax – they get out of the city and onto the beaches. After three weeks they return refreshed and ready for another year of work.

Paris is the center of haute cuisine and fashion. Everywhere you look there is a shop selling clothes and the other side is a restaurant, brasserie, or cafe. In fact there are nearly 20,000 restauraunts in Paris alone, a staggering number. Yet, almost every one we passed over the past week has been full or near bursting to capacity. The city is bustling with life even as it is supposed to be resting. The local haunts for the local residents stay open just to keep them all happy.
Paris is a city of traditions – strict traditions. During the week the streets are fairly calm, with the majority of the people walking around being tourists or vendors. By the time work is over, say 5 in the evening the pace of the city changes. there is a time at the end of every day for a trip to a local cafe or bar to have a drink with a friend. It is not a binge, it is just a way to unwind at the end of the day with friends. Then the brasseries start getting busy for food service around 9 pm. this is when the locals come out to eat. If they haven’t had the chance for the aperitif (pre-dinner drink) they certainly are at this time. Most places are open until fairly late but prices go up after 11:00 pm – and this is accepted as part of being out late.
The weekend is for relaxing, shopping and spending time with family. Sunday especially is critical – the markets open early and the street markets are filled with the murmur of chatter from the cafes and the intoxicating aromas of French perfume and tobacco smoke. The markets are filled with the joi de vivre of the city of Paris. On our market street, which was one of the reasons for staying in this area in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement, with the sun out, it felt alive. There is passion about food as shown by the care in which everyone deals with it.

At the butcher meats are cut by hand, at the cheese shops they tell you the best way to serve them, at the fruit stand everything looks like it came off the trees and into the bins without a hint of damage.

Here even the street food is called monsieur or Madame – I leave you with some easy Paris street food – the Croque Monsieur.

 

Croque Monsieur

2 slices bread, try a grainy country loaf
1 Tbs butter
1 slice of country ham
2-3 Tbs grated Gruyère, or Emmenthal cheese

Preheat broiler.

1. Spread the butter thinly on both sides of the bread.

2. Lay the ham on one slice and sprinkle on the cheese.

3. Cover with the second slice of bread and broil until golden. About 1-2 min

4. Turn sandwich and broil on the other side and serve immediately.

For a variation, top with a fried egg for a croque madame, or stuff with slices of avocado for a croque californian, all are tasty.

Copyright 2007 Unlawful dissemination of this or any other work will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.

Rock the Guac

October 11, 2007

 

They stare at me teasingly. Their pendulous shape beckons me to touch and caress them. Their weight is solid and there is a firmness which yields only slightly with a light touch – the Haas Avocados at the grocery store are ready for eating.

I’m going through what can only be described as an Avocado craving. Over the last couple of months I’ve eaten a lot of them – they are intoxicating when ripe. The flesh is flavorful and deliciously buttery, I am finding them hard to resist at the store.

Avocados are the Rodney Dangerfield of fruit- they don’t get the respect they deserve. Yes, they are fruit – the large seed in the middle tells us so. This ever disrespected fruit is getting a makeover becoming the hot new “it food”. It has become big enough to grace the cover of Saveur Magazine – the GQ of food style.

The Avocado originated in South central Mexico somewhere between 7,000 and 5,000 B.C with archaeological evidence Avocados were cultivated about 500 B.C making it one of the oldest continuously cultivated fruits along with apples, peaches and pears.

We don’t think of the fruit of the Avocado tree as being from Mexico but we do associate it with Mexican food. This might be true but the Avocados we love to eat all year round are from California. California boasts as being the central producer of Avocados in North America producing over 60% of the total yield. Today, the most popular variety is the Hass. The mother tree of all Hass avocados was born in a backyard in La Habra Heights, California and it is still alive today. 95% of all harvested avacado fruit is the Hass.

We know what an avacado looks like – like one of its nicknames – the Alligator Pear. The common Haas avacado has a thick but easily peeled skin and that slightly pebbly texture to the skin. The biggest question is when is it ripe enough to eat? The best way to tell if a California avocado is ready for immediate use is to gently squeeze the fruit in the palm of your hand. Ripe, ready-to-eat fruit will be firm yet will yield to gentle pressure.

Avocados are the new super food as all varieties are found to be both sodium and cholesterol free. The other reason is that they are packed full of cholesterol – the good kind which protects arteries from clogging. The much maligned fruit it lends itself to many applications – all of them tasty.

The buttery texture of the fruit makes a silky sauce, perfect for a dressing a salad or drizzled over fish – try this rich avocado sauce:

1 avocado, about 8 ounces, roughly diced

2 Tbsp sour cream

1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

Zest of ½ lemon

2 Tbs good olive oil

½ tsp salt or to taste

¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper or to taste

Start with a ripe avocado and cut it lengthwise around the seed. Twist the halves to separate. Remove the seed by sliding the tip of a spoon gently underneath and lifting out. Peel the fruit by scooping the avocado meat out with a tablespoon.

Using a blender or food processor, puree avocado until almost smooth. Add oil, sour cream, lemon and lemon zest. Puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Since guacamole is the most traditional way of eating the avocado – try this noble, and as far as I know, authentic guacamole.

1 ripe avocado, peeled, seeded

¼ tsp cumin, ground

¼ ripe tomato, seeded and diced

2 Tbs minced sweet white onion

1 Tbs chopped cilantro leaves

1 Tbsp fresh lime juice

A hot pepper sauce like Tobasco, sea salt, white pepper to taste

Cut the avocado in large chunks and mash lightly in a bowl with a fork. Add remaining ingredients and blend gently. Don’t make a paste, some small chunks are fine. Taste and adjust seasoning with more pepper sauce, salt and pepper if desired. Serve with everything from corn chips to a grilled pork chop.

The only trick left is storage. If you only need half an avocado be sure to sprinkle all cut surfaces with lemon juice or white vinegar to prevent the fruit from going brown.

I love those other ways of eating them but right now I’m a bit of a purist. I’ve been known to have half an avocado, just lightly seasoned with salt and pepper and eat it with a spoon. Go give the avocado the respect it deserves. I do.

Copyright 2007 Unlawful dissemination of this or any other work will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.